Another brief but delightful city break. Krakow and Warsaw had long been on my wishlist, and I thoroughly enjoyed my few days in the Polish capital. We arrived at Warsaw Chopin Airport on a Friday evening and took a lively taxi ride to the Old Town, with our driver giving us a mini tour along the way. We disembarked at the Old Town walls and settled into our well-placed Airbnb. We capped off the evening with dinner at the Old Town Market Square and a leisurely walk to Castle Square (Plac Zamkowy).

 
 

Day 1

We started our walking tour of the western area with plans to visit The Jewish Cemetery, but instead, we simply wandered and explored. We first passed the old Barbican, getting to know the neighborhood and discovering a few charming restaurants. Our route took us by the Supreme Court and the Warsaw Uprising Monument before we entered Ogród Krasinskich park. Exiting on the west side, we soon reached the POLIN Museum, located on the site of the former Warsaw Ghetto. Although we didn’t visit POLIN, we opted for The Warsaw Rising Museum.

Afterward, we took a bus toward The Jewish Cemetery, only to find it closed on Saturdays. We then hopped on a tram to The Warsaw Rising Museum.

 

The Warsaw Rising Museum was opened on the 60th anniversary of the outbreak of fighting in Warsaw. The Museum is a tribute of Warsaw’s residents to those who fought and died for independent Poland and its free capital. The exhibition depicts fighting and everyday life during the Rising, keeping occupation terror in the background. With the total area of more than 3000 m2, 800 exhibition items, approximately 1500 photographs, films and sound recordings, history of the days preceding the Rising is told. The second part of the permanent exhibition presents the story of Allied airdrops. Its highlight is a replica of a Liberator B-24J bomber. Much of the exhibition has been devoted to the Germans and their allies, showing their actions in Warsaw as documented in official texts from the time of the Rising and in private notes. The stories of eye witnesses of the August and September 1944 events are played in Hall B. A movie theatre shows films about the Rising on a panoramic screen. The Museum tower is a special attraction with a view of the Freedom Park and the city of Warsaw.

The Warsaw Rising Museum

 

The Warsaw Rising Museum is definitely striking and detailed, perhaps even overwhelming. What stood out most was the 3D flyover of the city ruins. I knew about the bombing of Warsaw, but the scale of destruction was staggering. It was truly eye-opening to see how much of what we were exploring was once in ruins. Warsaw has endured some of the worst history has to offer and emerged resilient.

 

 

Our next stop was the Praga district on the right bank of the Vistula River. Once an independent town, Praga was annexed to Warsaw in the late 18th century. It largely escaped the devastation of World War II, preserving many streets untouched by the war. Today, it’s a vibrant area known for its artistic studios, galleries, alternative theaters, and underground clubs.

We took a tram past Warszawa Centralna station and the impressive Palace of Culture and Science, crossed the Vistula over Poniatowski Bridge, and passed the National Stadium (PGE Narodowy). On Minska Street, we marveled at the stunning castle mural by Phlegm.

 

 

The area was coming to life with the vibrant colors of Soho Factory and a few rays of sunshine. Next, we visited The Neon Museum, dedicated to documenting and preserving Poland's Cold War-era neon signs. As a designer and typography enthusiast, I absolutely loved it!

 

As you can see from the photos, both the museum and Praga were a delight. Feeling hungry, we decided to try our first Milk Bar—Rusalka. These low-priced cafeterias, established during the Communist era to feed workers, serve traditional Polish dairy-based dishes. The food is homemade and delicious, and the prices are incredibly low. We paid about 25 PLN for two main dishes and two huge, amazing cheese pancake desserts.

 

As the day went on, we wrapped up our explorations in the Old Town. The sunset cast a golden light over the rooftops, creating a perfect backdrop. Climbing up to the viewing deck was the highlight of my day—the view was spectacular. From Castle Square and Sigismund's Column to the Old Town walls and across the Vistula to Praga, it was an unforgettable sight. Don’t miss this if you’re in Warsaw.

 

 

After sunset, I ventured out again for some night photography and ended up at the stylish Podwale Bar (& Books). With a glass of whisky in hand, I felt quite the manly man. I tried Japanese whisky for the first time and really enjoyed Nikka From the Barrel. I decided I’d bring the lady along the next night to share the experience.

 

Day 2

 

Having covered a lot on our first day, we slept in a bit the next morning. We started with breakfast in the Old Town and a quick visit to St. John's Archcathedral. Leaving Plac Zamkowy, we strolled down Krakowskie Przedmiescie, one of Warsaw’s most prestigious streets, lined with historic palaces, churches, and manor houses. Our main plan was to spend the day at the Copernicus Science Centre.

 
 

We walked to the Copernicus Science Centre and ended up waiting in line for an hour to get in. The museum was packed, and since it's highly interactive, we spent a lot of time waiting to try things out. It wasn't really my scene (I’m more of a Joey than a Ross in this regard), but Nina loved it!

 
 

We had dinner at Zapiecek, a popular Polish restaurant chain known for its great food—and attractive waitresses. We tried pierogi, the national dish: delicious dumplings filled with a variety of ingredients from sweet to savory. They were fantastic, especially paired with a hibiscus winter elixir and vodka.

 
 

We spent the evening at Teatr Wielki, enjoying a powerful performance of The Tempest. Although I'm no ballet expert, I was thoroughly impressed, and Nina couldn’t stop raving about it. The National Opera itself is stunning, both inside and out, and conveniently close to the Old Town.

 

 

Day 3

I woke up early to capture the sunrise around the Old Town. With our last full day in Warsaw ahead, we planned to take it easy, starting with some shopping at Złote Tarasy.

 

 

We had breakfast at Kumpir House on Krakowskie Przedmiescie before heading to the Palace of Culture and Science. This towering landmark, the tallest building in Poland, was a 1955 gift from the Soviet Union to Poland.

After exploring the grand building, we spent some time shopping at the nearby Złote Tarasy mall. We also revisited the Jewish Cemetery, which, as expected, proved to be a somber and poignant place.

 

 

Another dose of Polish comfort food was necessary, so we headed to Gościniec, a spot similar to Zapiecek, with charming waitresses as well. We started with homemade broth and noodles, followed by potato pancakes with pork goulash, a salad, and of course, another round of pierogi. Yet again, we rounded off the meal with hibiscus and vodka.

 
 

On our way back, we stopped at Bar & Books for a Bond-themed evening with martinis and cigar promos. I mistakenly ordered a rare 25-year-old Bowmore, which turned out to be shockingly expensive, but I followed up with a delightful Nikka Coffey Malt.

This wrapped up our weekend getaway to Warsaw. We flew home the next day, already planning our return to Poland!