Our vacation in Sardinia was a spontaneous choice. We snagged incredible promo flights with Volotea, scoring return tickets for just €20 each. Although we had to factor in additional expenses for departing from Venice, it was still a fantastic deal. We traveled in late September, after the peak season had ended.

Arrival

Upon arriving in Olbia, Sardinia, we decided to concentrate on exploring the northern part of the island, given our limited time of just one week. We faced quite a few challenges with car rentals but ultimately managed to secure a purple Fiat Panda. Local company Only Sardinia Car Rental turned out to be the best option, with staff who were exceptionally friendly and helpful compared to other rental agencies.

We drove for about 1.5 hours to reach our Airbnb in Valledoria, a charming town on the northern coast. The Airbnb was fantastic—cozy, clean, and equipped with a full kitchen. Valledoria proved to be an excellent base for exploring the north of Sardinia, and I highly recommend it!

For dinner, we headed to La Caccia and dined at La Locanda del Mare, where we sampled traditional Sardinian gnocchi.

Around Valledoria

We drove northeast through Badesi and made a stop at Li Junchi beach, a vast stretch of sand. The wind was quite strong, so we decided to move on and headed to Isola Rossa, a charming town known for its striking red rocks. We relaxed on the beach, enjoyed a cup of coffee, and took a leisurely stroll through the town, eventually reaching La Torre Spagnola. This historic Spanish Tower, built as part of a coastal defense system against North African pirates, is the oldest of its kind in Sardinia. We spotted a few other similar towers, but La Torre Spagnola stood out for its historical significance.

As we continued north, we arrived at Costa Paradiso, an intriguing coastal area that felt like a ghost town during our visit. It’s likely bustling in high season, but during our time there, it seemed to cater primarily to tourists, giving it a somewhat artificial vibe.

However, we discovered a hidden gem. After parking at the base of the town, we took a 10-minute walk beneath the red cliffs to reach Li Cossi beach. The view from the top was breathtaking—this unique beach features a river flowing into the sea and is truly one of a kind. It was a highlight of the trip for me, although the water was a bit chilly in late September, a reminder of the perks of traveling earlier in the season.

We returned to Valledoria and then headed out to see Roccia dell'Elefante, also known as Elephant Rock. Afterward, we spent the evening in Castelsardo, a beautifully colorful town dominated by an impressive castle overlooking the area.

Stintino & Alghero

Heading northwest, we drove through the bustling Porto Torres and made our way to Le Saline Beach, a 9 km stretch of sand with shallow, bright blue water. We then continued to the tip of the Stintino peninsula, where we visited the charming town of Stintino and took in the stunning views of Spiaggia La Pelosa. We also saw another Spanish tower in the area.

However, the popularity of the location was evident as the area was packed with tourists, making it nearly impossible to find parking despite the large lots available. I can’t imagine how crowded it must be in July!

We then headed south to Alghero, where we explored its charming streets, enjoyed the local taverns, and walked along the historic city walls. In the evening, we returned to Valledoria and relaxed at our local beach, San Pietro.

Rena Majore

We headed northeast once more, traveling to the northern tip of Sardinia. Along the way, we passed familiar spots like Isola Rossa and Costa Paradiso, and discovered the lesser-known Vignola Mare. We took a refreshing swim at Rena Majore, known for its stunningly vivid water colors. Finally, we arrived in Santa Teresa Gallura, a charming town perched on the northern edge of Sardinia, overlooking the Strait of Bonifacio.

We enjoyed a lovely stroll around Santa Teresa Gallura, where we admired another Spanish tower and took in the great views. We then spent some time at Rena Bianca beach, which quickly became my favorite. The shallow waters extended for a good distance, making the water warmer and ideal for a relaxing swim. From the beach, we could see the southern coast of Corsica with its white cliffs. The viewpoint overlooking Rena Bianca also offered spectacular vistas.

We wrapped up our day with a drive to Capo Testa, renowned for its fascinating geology, where the rocks have a strikingly unique, almost plastic-like appearance. On our way back, we stopped at Monti Russu beach, where we enjoyed the golden evening light in solitude, savoring the peaceful and picturesque setting.

Maddalena

No trip to Sardinia is complete without exploring the Maddalena Archipelago. We booked a boat tour with Elena Tours, which took us around the islands, stopping at several points of interest. We began our journey early from Palau, where we boarded the boat to Maddalena. Although the weather was initially poor, it gradually improved throughout the day.

Our first stop was the island of Spargi, where we enjoyed a swim at Cala Corsara beach. I climbed up to a viewpoint and was rewarded with an incredible view— the bay displayed the most vivid blue I’ve ever seen.

Our boat was soon joined by many others, and the area quickly became crowded. A sailboat would be an ideal way to explore the archipelago, allowing you to stop wherever you like and avoid the large crowds.

We continued our tour to Budelli Island's Piscine Naturali, known for its natural swimming pools. We then stopped at Caprera Island, where we enjoyed a swim at Cala Santa Maria beach. The tour concluded with a visit to La Maddalena, the main town in the archipelago, famous for its narrow streets and colorful houses. On our way back, we also spotted Roccia dell'Orso, a rock formation that resembles a bear.

Costa Smeralda

On our last full day in Sardinia, we decided to explore Costa Smeralda. We had left it for last, anticipating it might not be our favorite spot. Costa Smeralda is known for its upscale reputation, with white sand beaches, golf clubs, and exclusive hotels.

While we were curious about the beaches, we found them underwhelming compared to the stunning ones we had visited earlier in the trip. Porto Cervo, a prominent area in Costa Smeralda, was pleasant for a drink, but it felt like a tourist theme park rather than a genuine destination.

Nuraghe Albucciu was far more captivating. Nuraghi are ancient megalithic structures unique to Sardinia, built during the Nuragic Age between 1900 and 730 BCE. Over 7,000 of these fascinating towers have been discovered on the island.

We then drove back through the hilly landscape to the northern coast and stopped at Vignola Mare. This area features another lovely beach, complete with a Spanish tower adding a historic touch.

In the evening, I finally climbed Castel Doria, a tower I had been eyeing from the car for a few days. From the top of the hill, I enjoyed a breathtaking sunset, making for a memorable end to our Sardinian adventure.

With a few hours left before our flight home, we visited Isola Rossa once more. This time, we took a right turn north and discovered La Marinedda Beach, a peaceful spot recommended by our Airbnb host. It was the perfect place to end our week in the Mediterranean.

Overall, we had a fantastic time. Sardinia’s rich history—from prehistoric nuraghes to Roman, barbarian, and Spanish influences—is evident throughout the island. I also loved the diverse landscape, with its hills, unusual rock formations, and vineyards, making the drives a pleasure. The low season provided a tranquil experience with fewer crowds, except in Stintino.

However, we found the local service lacking; people seemed disengaged, and the food options were limited, with average taste and high prices. We’d recommend visiting earlier in the season, perhaps in early September. Although it might be busier, the island would be more vibrant, and the sea would likely be warmer.