It was that time of year again when wanderlust hit hard. In late August, we decided to revisit Asia, having heard great things about the Philippines. We snagged promotional flights to Manila and, with ample time to plan our itinerary, were excited for the adventure ahead.
By March, we were on our way, flying from Venice with stops in Istanbul and Hong Kong. Our journey was the longest we’d ever undertaken, totaling 14 hours of flying and several more at airports. Arriving late in Manila, we opted to spend the night in the airport lounge before our morning flight.
With the Philippines being vast, we booked three domestic flights (Manila-Tagbilaran, Cebu-Puerto Princesa, Puerto Princesa-Manila) to maximize our visit. Flight promotions helped us keep costs down, though an average ticket was 3300 PHP per person. Accommodation averaged around 1600 PHP per night.
We were jetlagged and exhausted but boarded an early flight to our first island—Bohol. The aerial views were stunning, starting with the lush landscapes of North Luzon, passing over Mount Banahaw, and then the islands nestled in turquoise waters surrounded by coral reefs. As we approached Bohol, the Chocolate Hills came into view, dotted across the landscape. We landed in Tagbilaran, an airport no bigger than a garage, and took a tricycle to Panglao Island, which, although southwest of Bohol, is still within the Bohol Province. Our first stop was White Beach, northeast of the bustling and crowded Alona Beach. With its long stretch of sand, big waves, palm trees, and sunshine, it was clear: we were on holiday.
The place felt authentically local with no other tourists around. We discovered a beachside restaurant, Yuken Mari, where we enjoyed a delicious meal of chicken, rice, veggies, fish, and a San Miguel beer. Jetlagged, we went to bed early and maintained an early schedule throughout the trip.
The next day was for exploring Bohol. We took a tricycle to Tagbilaran Dao terminal and then a bus to Carmen to see the Chocolate Hills. Surprisingly, we were the only tourists on the bus, but the locals were incredibly friendly, helping us find our stop. After walking up the road, we were amazed by the unusual green hills, though the site was crowded with tourists. We then caught a van to Corella for the Tarsier Sanctuary. Here, tarsiers are free to leave but usually stay in place. Despite the guide’s apparent boredom, spotting the tarsiers was definitely worth it.
We walked back to the main road, unsure of how to get back to Tagbilaran. A local kid on a motorcycle informed us the bus wouldn’t be coming soon and offered to call a taxi, but we decided to wait. Fifteen minutes later, a local van arrived and took us to Tagbilaran for just 20 PHP—absurdly cheap. The van was already full when we got on, but by the time we reached Tagbilaran, we’d squeezed in about six more people and a chicken.
We returned to Panglao Island’s Alona Beach to arrange our boat transfer for the next morning. Alona is quite touristy, maybe a bit more than we prefer. Nevertheless, we successfully booked our one-way boat to Oslob.
Our boat was scheduled to leave at 9:00, but we actually set sail around 11:00. The service providers seemed a bit disorganized, which left us waiting on the streets of Alona. They packed us into tiny vans and took us to another beach, where we had to walk about 300 meters to reach our boat. Because of the low tide, they couldn’t come to get us, so our guides carried our backpacks through the water, which was a bit frustrating with the camera gear. Despite the hiccups, our guides remained cheerful. The boat's engine stalled a few times on the way, but the skilled Filipinos fixed it quickly. Although the service was less than ideal and took longer than expected, it was still the fastest and cheapest way to get to Cebu, and for that, I'm grateful.
We arrived north of Oslob and took a tricycle to the whale shark viewing area. It was crowded but well-organized. After purchasing a ticket, getting instructions, and a brief van ride, we showered and boarded a boat that took us 20 meters from the beach. The experience was chaotic with around 50 other people swimming with the whale sharks. These gentle giants, measuring about 5-6 meters here, were awe-inspiring. However, it’s hard to decide if the experience was positive. The whale sharks are fed to keep them returning, which draws more tourists and could negatively impact their future. It feels more like a commercial enterprise than a sustainable practice.
We continued on a yellow Ceres Liner bus around the southern Cebu coast and got off in Ginatilan. A sign indicated Inambakan Falls was 4 km away, which seemed too far to walk with our backpacks. Two friendly locals gave us a ride through the tropical forest on their motorcycle, which was an amazing experience. There’s a small entry fee, and Inambakan Falls is a short walk from the road. The waterfall was impressive, with fresh water and local kids playing nearby. We chose this waterfall because Kawasan Falls was known to be overly touristy.
We took another Ceres Liner north to Moalboal and checked into Quo Vadis Dive Resort for two days of snorkeling. The resort was perfect, providing all the snorkeling gear we needed. Moalboal is famous for the sardine run, with large schools of sardines migrating close to Panagsama Beach. We spotted them near the reef drop-off by Chili Bar. A Canadian we met during lunch recommended a reef area just outside Quo Vadis, where he had seen diverse marine life, including sea snakes and a turtle. We headed there and were amazed by the colorful reef and the marine life. We even saw a turtle! It was an incredible experience seeing these creatures in their natural habitat. Thanks, Canadian guy!
We visited White Beach in the evening, taking a 30-minute tricycle ride north from Panagsama through a rugged landscape where people live simply. Roosters were everywhere—everyone seemed to have one. White Beach was a beautiful spot with crystal-clear water, perfect for watching the sunset over Negros Island. We returned to our resort, enjoyed a fresh coconut, and called it a day, knowing a challenging one awaited us.
We woke up at 5 a.m. and headed to Moalboal town’s main bus station, where we were fortunate to catch a bus right away. A dusty old Ceres liner took us to Cebu City in about four hours. The ride was enjoyable until traffic slowed us down in Talisay City. We then took a taxi from Cebu City to Mactan Island, where the airport is located, which took another half hour.
Our flight to Palawan was scheduled for 2 p.m., but Cebu Pacific was an hour late. After an hour and 20 minutes, we landed in Puerto Princesa, Palawan—the final island of our journey.
Since we were running late and the last vans to Port Barton were expected to leave around 4 p.m., I quickly arranged for one at an office outside the airport. Although it could have been cheaper, we opted for convenience. A driver took us to De Loro Inn, where the van later picked us up. The drive was hectic; the Filipino navigated like a maniac, and we reached Roxas—an important junction for Port Barton or El Nido—in about 2.5 hours. The final stretch to Port Barton was challenging due to ongoing road construction.
We arrived in Port Barton around 9 p.m. and checked into Elsa’s Cottage right on the beach. The day was fully spent on the road.
Port Barton is known for its quiet, laid-back vibe compared to El Nido. It has no electricity except from 6 p.m. to midnight, no banks or ATMs, and no doctors or hospitals. It's a popular destination for budget backpackers seeking a relaxed atmosphere amidst nature.
We didn’t get much sleep as the loud bass music blared until 4 a.m. Elsa’s Cottage wasn't the ideal choice for us. But when I woke up, I was greeted by paradise. The sun was rising over the palm trees shrouded in morning mist, revealing the full beauty of Port Barton Beach.
We spent the day exploring the village, meeting locals, and relaxing in a hammock outside our cottage. I booked a somewhat private island-hopping tour promising a mix of tours A, B, C, and D.
It lived up to the promise. The next morning, just five of us set off from Port Barton Beach. We started at Aquarium Reef and Wide Reef, where the coral and marine life were spectacular. We then visited German Island for lunch and snorkeling, where we spotted our second turtle. Despite a lot of jellyfish, only the ones with long tentacles are supposed to be dangerous, though we did get stung a few times. We continued to Riddle Point for more snorkeling and ended the day with a 15-minute walk to Bigaho Falls, where we cooled off in the refreshing water.
I woke up with a fever, but thankfully felt better within a few hours. We decided to hike to Pamuayan Falls, about 4 km from Port Barton Beach. The trailhead is just past Greenviews Resort, and while motorcycle rides were available, we chose to walk. We passed a local cemetery and rice fields. The waterfall was a beautiful tropical sight, with local kids splashing around. In the evening, we enjoyed a stunning sunset over the islands .
Port Barton had its charm, but it wasn't as serene as we had hoped. Nights at Elsa's Cottage were particularly lively, and the village seemed to attract a specific crowd—young, trendy travelers with Hindu-symbol tattoos, performing tai chi in front of restaurants and spending their days indoors, waiting for electricity to post selfies online. Maybe I'm being a bit harsh. Still, Port Barton is worth a visit; just consider staying at a different guesthouse. We booked a direct van transfer to El Nido and left the next morning.
The road to Roxas was rough, and it took another four hours to reach El Nido. We arrived at the bus terminal and took a tricycle to our hotel, Nido Bay Inn. The stay was cozy, right on the beachfront with a lovely view of the bay and Cadlao Island. We had two excellent eateries next to the hotel: L’Assiette and Artcafé. Both were a bit pricey, especially L’Assiette, but it was our final stop, so we decided to splurge. We enjoyed a delightful brunch with coffee at L’Assiette—our first good coffee in two weeks. I even managed to have the best dump of the trip right after. That’s living!
We explored the village and checked out several island hopping tour operators. We initially considered a regular 2-day/1-night tour, but it felt too touristy. Then we discovered Philippines À La Carte, which offered a private tour for just the two of us, including a private boat, all meals, a tent, shower, sunset cruise, fishing, and tours of our choice. It was quite expensive, but we decided to go for it since this was likely our first and last time in El Nido.
In the evening, we took a tricycle to Marimegmeg Beach and enjoyed a sunset over Pangulasian Island.
We packed up and left El Nido at 7 a.m. Our tour covered highlights from all the A, B, C, and D tours. Though our four guides were initially shy, we quickly bonded with them.
We circled around the hill, passing Ipil, Ipil Ipil, 7 Commandos, Corong Corong, and Marimegmeg beaches, and sailed toward Pinagbuyutan Island. Its limestone cliffs soar over 300 meters high. On the other side, we saw stunning beaches, Taraw Rocks, palm trees, and tall grass. Enchanted Island indeed.
We continued past the Jurassic-like Malapacao Island, stopped at a sandbar, and explored Lagen Island. After kayaking to a beach, we enjoyed an incredible lunch prepared by our cook Abel: pork, squid, fish, mussels, rice, and fruit—plenty of delicious food.
Next, we visited Cathedral Cave and kayaked inside. We also explored Cudugnon Cave on the mainland and then Snake Island, where we climbed to a viewpoint to see the island's "snake" shape. We passed Pangulasian Island with its luxury resort and went snorkeling at Popolcan Island. The water was noticeably cooler than in Port Barton and felt refreshing, though there were more jellyfish. We tried snorkeling around Entalula Island but had to cut it short due to jellyfish.
As the sun set we sailed to our private island for the night: Shimizu Island. Surrounded by towering Taraw pillars, we had dinner under the stars and slept in a tent right on the beach.
Our guides went above and beyond to make the tour private, skillfully avoiding the crowds. We started early to visit Miniloc Island’s lagoons: Small Lagoon, Big Lagoon, and Secret Lagoon. Our yellow kayak was perfect for fully exploring these spots, and we enjoyed the entire area to ourselves.
We then explored Secret Beach, where we had to swim through a narrow underwater tunnel to reach the hidden cove. Next was snorkeling at Matinloc Island, which featured the most stunning reef I’ve ever seen—amazing visibility and a myriad of fish. Our captain anchored near the beach in Tapiutan Strait, across from the Matinloc Shrine, where we enjoyed Abel’s chicken soup.
We visited Hidden Beach, which was a bit crowded but still beautiful. The kayak was useful again at Cadlao Lagoon/Ubugon Cove, with its striking turquoise waters. On our way back, we passed Dilumacad (Helicopter) Island and stopped at Ipil Ipil for a final beach walk. As more boats arrived, preparing for overnight camping and parties, we were grateful for our private tour. The Bacuit Archipelago was truly unforgettable. Thanks to Abel, Sam, Jon, and Nick for an incredible experience!
With two days left in El Nido, we aimed to make the most of it but were thwarted when I came down with a fever. I had to rest and recover. We had planned to visit the twin beaches of Nacpan and Calitang and hike Taraw Cliff for a panoramic view of El Nido village. However, Taraw Cliff was closed due to a recent accident. It’s a must-visit if it reopens.
The next day, we took a van back to Puerto Princesa and spent an adventurous night of diarrhea and TV. We then flew back through Manila, Hong Kong, Istanbul, and finally Venice.
I didn’t need any time to adjust to the Philippines; the moment I arrived, work and home seemed distant. The islands have a unique, captivating vibe. Filipinos are incredibly kind and welcoming, and I always felt safe. Having been to Thailand, I’m usually cautious in crowded places, but the Philippines felt reassuringly laid-back everywhere we went.
I hope to return someday to explore more islands, perhaps diving in Coron, Tubbataha, or Apo Reef. I’d also love to tour Luzon, from the Banaue rice terraces to the volcanoes of Pinatubo, Taal, and Mayon, and visit the Caramoan Islands. The Batanes Islands would deserve a trip of their own. Thank you, Philippines, for an unforgettable experience!