After much anticipation, we finally checked off this long-time bucket list destination with a month-long trip. We started in the south, exploring the Mekong Delta and Phu Quoc for some beach time. We then flew to Hanoi, took a bus and boat to Cat Ba Island, another bus to Ninh Binh, and a private transfer to Moc Chau’s green tea hills. This was our northernmost point, as we had to turn back due to health issues and a poor weather forecast. We had planned to visit Mu Cang Chai for its stunning rice terraces, but conditions didn't look promising. We ended our journey with a flight from Hanoi to Hue and wrapped up in the charming town of Hoi An.

Ho Chi Minh City

We arrived in the evening, took a taxi from the airport to our hostel in District 1, only to find it was much worse than the photos on Booking.com. Located in a back alley, our 4th-floor room had a poor air conditioner and dirty bedsheets. Jetlagged and hungry, we decided to try Pho, the only Vietnamese dish we knew. It wasn't great, but it served its purpose. The 333 beer was a better choice.

The next morning, we hoped for a better breakfast but ended up with a disappointing panini recommended by the receptionist. Our doubts about the vaunted Vietnamese cuisine began to grow. We decided to leave HCMC after just one night, despite its many attractions. We took a sleeper Futa bus to Can Tho, which was cozy, punctual, and took about three hours.

Can Tho

As we drove toward Can Tho, the landscape became greener with palm trees appearing. I was surprised to learn that Can Tho is the fourth largest city in Vietnam. We chose it to explore the famous floating markets.

We stayed two nights at Casa Inn, which was an excellent choice—very clean, with a spacious room, great coffee, and a lovely owner. We booked a 7-hour market tour through the hostel, unsure of what to expect.

Despite being two days in, jetlag still plagued us, and we were constantly hungry. Nearby, there was a cake festival with numerous food options, but with no English speakers around, we had no idea what to try. We sampled a roll with minced meat, rice, and something green, but it wasn’t very impressive.

The locals were friendly, though. A couple warned us about potential thieves, and a few security guards soon joined us, possibly sent by someone for our safety. They smiled and ensured we felt secure, though their presence might have been a bit excessive.

For our Mekong Delta tour, a taxi picked us up at 5 a.m. and drove us to the riverside, where we boarded a small boat. It turned out to be a private tour with just the two of us, our friendly guide, and the driver.

We navigated through the main canal toward Cai Rang market, then continued on to the lesser-known Phong Dien. After about two hours on the river, we arrived at a small local community where goods were exchanged on small boats—vegetables, fruits, and even lottery tickets. We weaved comfortably among about 20 boats, observing life on this floating market.

Afterward, we went ashore for breakfast overlooking the market. We enjoyed a delicious rice noodle soup with beef and vegetables, accompanied by sweet Vietnamese coffee.

We returned to the canal, visiting fruit gardens, a rice noodle factory, and passing Cai Rang market once more. We bought the sweetest pineapples and enjoyed them on a trader’s boat. A kind lady offered us salt and chili, which made the pineapple taste incredible.

We then traveled through smaller canals, often having the river to ourselves, which was very peaceful. The Mekong is vast and even experiences tidal changes twice a day. However, low tide reveals the polluted riverbeds.

Upon returning, we tried a local restaurant, Bun Cha, which looked like a garage with small plastic seats and a friendly Vietnamese man inside. With only five meal options and no English, we pointed to two photos on the menu and ordered two Saigon beers. A soup soon arrived, which we mixed with sprouts, vegetables, and noodles. It tasted good but nothing extraordinary. We started worrying about our meals for the next month, as the food so far hadn’t met our expectations.

In the evening, we planned to join a food tour with a local guide, but he never showed up, and the hotel informed us he had called in sick. Undeterred, we explored Can Tho, which was bustling with traffic and bright street lights. We found a BBQ place where we cooked our own food. Although we were unsure what to order, the shrimp turned out great, and the meat was a mystery but tasty. We finished off with two Saigon beers.

We’re glad we experienced the Mekong Delta, though it left me a bit underwhelmed. While the floating markets were interesting and Phong Dien was lovely, I expected more from Cai Rang. Granted, we were possibly too late.

As our time in Can Tho ended, we enjoyed a great breakfast at Casa Inn—surprisingly, the best food we had so far, with Vietnamese bread, another noodle soup, and coffee. A taxi took us to Can Tho airport. We initially considered taking a bus to Rach Gia and then a boat to Phu Quoc, but it would have consumed the entire day. Although slightly cheaper, it wasn’t worth the time.

Phu Quoc

Phu Quoc is apparently known as a top beach destination in Vietnam, but given that Vietnam isn’t renowned for its beaches, we managed our expectations. We stayed on the west side at Long Beach, which is reputed to be the best but was quite busy.

When we arrived at Ninila Casa, they informed us they had no room available and arranged for us to stay in a neighboring bungalow for two nights. Although unexpected, the bungalow was pleasant, surrounded by an orchard and the owners' restaurant. We enjoyed some spring rolls for lunch and pre-ordered dinner.

We rented a motorbike and explored the nearby beach. To our surprise, it was quite clean and not too crowded. The beach stretched far north, allowing us to easily find a secluded spot of our own.

For dinner, we had chicken curry and beef/vegetable/noodle thing, both of which were delicious. At the end of the meal, they brought us a fruit platter—papaya, mango, watermelon, and dragon fruit—all from their garden.

We went to bed early but struggled to sleep due to a constant racket on the roof, likely caused by geckos. A huge storm also raged until noon, so we slept in until it passed. When we finally emerged, we looked like zombies but enjoyed a banana pancake breakfast while their friendly dogs tried to beg for scraps.

The skies cleared up, and we explored another section of Long Beach, near Mango Bay Resort. The water was noticeably cooler than the day before, probably due to the recent storm.

Our plan was to explore the island, including Starfish Beach and the southern part. However, we ended up relaxing at our own beach. The weather was unpredictable, and we needed some downtime, so Ong Lang Beach and a good book suited us perfectly for our four days in Phu Quoc.

On our last day, we woke up, had breakfast, spent a couple of hours at the beach, packed up, and headed to the airport. We then flew to Hanoi.

HANOI

We arrived in the evening and took a Grab ride to our Genial Hanoi hotel, which turned out to be excellent. The staff spoke great English, and the room was impeccably clean.

Luka joined us soon after, and we headed to a nearby back alley for a bite to eat. We tried a local street food dish of steak with egg—not great, not terrible, though incredibly cheap. We then enjoyed some mango juice while sitting on plastic chairs, soaking in the vibrant nightlife.

Day two: We took a walk around the city, beginning on Hang Giay Street and exploring the smaller alleys to immerse ourselves in local life. The hidden market streets near Hang Da were particularly captivating. We also visited Train Street, the Temple of Literature, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, and the Thang Long Imperial Citadel.

Our final stop was St. Joseph's Cathedral, where we enjoyed a beer on a balcony overlooking the bustling square and relaxed after a busy day of sightseeing.

For dinner, we went to Home Hanoi, a stunning French villa offering some of the best food of our entire trip.

Cat Ba island

We chose Cat Ba to experience the limestone geology of Halong Bay without the heavy tourist crowds. We stayed at Little Cat Ba, a charming homestay a bit outside the main town, with amazing owners!

Cat Ba town has a few decent restaurants, but it's visually unremarkable.

On our second day, we rented motorbikes and drove to Cat Ba National Park to climb Ngu Lam Peak. The hike was extremely hot and humid, a stark contrast to the hikes we're used to at home, but the view was worth it.

On our return, we explored some caves, as there are limestone formations with many holes scattered around. A notable attraction is the Hospital Cave, built in the 1960s. This bombproof concrete shelter spans three stories, with a doctor’s office, recovery rooms, and a large natural cavern that served as a cinema room.

We visited Cannon Fort, where tunnels and gun emplacements were initially installed by the Japanese during WWII and later used by the French and Vietnamese in subsequent conflicts. We drove our scooters straight to the top, though the walk up also offers some great views. The site is impressive, with panoramic vistas of Lan Ha Bay, a large floating fishing village, and the Ho Chi Minh monument. The path around the fort allowed us to explore the cannons, ammunition storage, and tunnels. Although much of the military gear is gone, we got a good sense of the fort's historical significance.

Little Cat Ba arranged a private boat trip for us to Lan Ha Bay at a very reasonable price, so we decided to go for it. We set out early, caught the sunrise, and sailed among the limestone islands. The Cai Beo floating village was particularly impressive.

We encountered a few larger tourist boats, but most were still asleep. Our friendly fisherman also provided kayaks for exploring a lagoon.

The trip was peaceful and enjoyable but not particularly remarkable. I've seen similar landscapes in Thailand and the Philippines. Lan Ha Bay, like Halong Bay, didn’t quite compare to the northern part of Palawan for example.

The water here was green, murky, and uninviting, with noticeable plastic pollution. I’m glad we skipped Halong Bay, which is known to be even busier and more polluted.

At the end of the trip, our fisherman proudly showed us his floating home.

On our last day, we checked out the infamous Cat Co beaches. Beach No. 3 was surprisingly crowded, while No. 1 and No. 2 were closed for construction. We ended up taking a walk around the cape, which was quite pleasant.