Take 2: Winter edition.

This was our second trip to this extraordinary country. We absolutely loved our round trip in the summer of 2015 and had heard so much about Iceland's beauty in winter that we had to see it for ourselves. We spent a week exploring around the capital and the south.

Wizz Air offers budget-friendly direct flights from Budapest, which is great, but our flight had a bit of a hiccup. We took a detour in Norway and were uncertain whether we’d make it to Keflavík or end up in Scotland instead. Thankfully, we arrived safely, albeit two hours late. Once we landed, it was straight to baggage claim and then to Geysir car rental—our go-to.

We settled into a cozy Airbnb just a 10-minute walk from Hallgrímskirkja, located next to Klambratún park. A nearby Bonus store was perfect for us since we planned to cook most of our meals.

On our first day, we explored the local neighborhood, circling Hallgrímskirkja, strolling along Laugavegur, and visiting the Sun Voyager at the waterfront.

THE GOLDEN CIRCLE

We couldn’t let a beautiful day go to waste in the city, so we set out to explore the Golden Circle—though not the entire route. The 10 AM morning light greeted us warmly, offering a taste of the winter wonderland that awaited. We admired the snow-capped mountains just outside Reykjavík as we made our way to Þingvellir, where we enjoyed the classic view of the church from the viewpoint.

It’s always more exciting to experience something new than to revisit familiar sights. So, we headed to Öxarárfoss, the national park’s very own waterfall, where the water flows gracefully between the tectonic plates.

We continued east toward Geysir, eagerly waiting for a few eruptions before making our way back to Laugarvatn. There, we were thrilled to receive two complimentary passes to Laugarvatn Fontana, a geothermal bath nestled in the heart of the Golden Circle. The spa features hot pools, steam rooms, a sauna, and even a pathway leading to the chilly waters of Lake Laugarvatn itself.

We capped off our day at Resto, the only place we chose to eat out during our trip—and we went all out! We enjoyed a delightful five-course dinner, expertly crafted by the chef, with one course featuring fish and the other lamb. It was a delicious way to end our day!

REYKJANES

I feel like many people overlook the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, but it’s actually one of my favorite places. It’s never crowded, and the barren landscape is incredibly peaceful and relaxing—especially when blanketed in snow. This was our most wintry experience, with roads covered in white, though I was surprised by how little snow there was in Iceland during our visit.

We drove along Krýsuvíkvegur, crossing a small mountain pass as the purple sunrise illuminated the white hills. The constant “golden hour” never ceased to amaze me. We made a stop at Kleifarvatn and revisited Seltún. While this geothermal area with its mud pots and hot springs was beautiful, I found it even more vibrant in the summer.

Our next stop was Selatangar, an old fishing settlement. We somehow overlooked the remaining ruins, but we spent a delightful amount of time soaking up the sun and playing on the beach like a couple of kids.

NEW YEAR'S

As the time came to return to the city and prepare for New Year's Eve, we considered heading to Perlan for the countdown. However, it seemed everyone favored Hallgrímskirkja. The night was clear, and the aurora forecast looked promising, so we ventured out to Seltjarnarnes to escape the city lights—and the show did not disappoint! A crowd had gathered at the western tip of Reykjavík to witness the green lights dancing in the sky, fulfilling one of my biggest wishes and serving as the perfect birthday gift.

Aurora Borealis: Check!

As the northern lights began to fade, we headed home to layer up and make our way to Hallgrímskirkja for the fireworks show. Fireworks had been lighting up the sky since midday and would continue well into the first of January, but it was particularly spectacular around midnight. Explosions lit up the horizon in every direction, and with Reykjavík not being too small, Hallgrímskirkja felt like the epicenter of the celebration. Locals kept bringing and lighting batteries non-stop, making for an incredible experience. Icelanders really go all out for New Year's!

REYKJAVÍK

On the 1st, we slept in, enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, and then set out to explore the town again. Our route took us down Skólavörðustígur and Laugavegur, two of the main streets, before arriving at the familiar Austurvöllur square.

From there, we continued west to a nearby cathedral and then headed down Ægisgata toward the Reykjavík Old Harbour. Our next stop was Harpa, a stunning concert hall and conference center. The architecture and design are remarkable, both inside and out.

On our way back, we explored some shops and marveled at Reykjavík's incredible street art.

TO VÍK

South Iceland was likely our favorite area from our summer trip, so we were excited to return. We left Reykjavík while it was still dark, with plans to visit four waterfalls along the way: Urridafoss, Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, and Kvernufoss. Since we hadn't seen Urridafoss and Kvernufoss yet, we were looking forward to the adventure.

Unfortunately, the weather had other plans—windy, humid, and foggy conditions made visibility poor. We drove through, stopping for a few snapshots before continuing on to Vík. Thankfully, we had plenty of extra time over the next two days to explore further.

SOUTH

I started my day early with a sunrise hike to Reynisfjall. The cliff offers a stunning bird's-eye view over Vík, with calm waves gently lapping at the black beach below. I loved the sight of the surrounding mountains, especially the massive Mýrdalsjökull ice cap in the background.

We then drove past Eyjafjallajökull and its infamous volcano toward Skógar and Skógafoss, which was packed as usual. Afterward, we parked our car next to Skógar Museum and ventured into the nearby canyon. It wasn’t long before we reached Kvernufoss, which was considerably less crowded than Skógafoss. In fact, we had the place all to ourselves! It’s an awesome waterfall!

As the day was coming to a close, our final stop was Sólheimajökull, one of the accessible tongues of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier. It’s a stunning location! The icy blue glacier gleams against the backdrop of majestic rock formations, covered in vibrant green moss and shaped by the glacier itself.

We ended our day trip on a black beach in Vík, where we enjoyed a beautiful sunset behind Reynisdrangar. It felt wonderfully cheesy!

Later that evening, the forecast once again looked promising, so I grabbed my camera and tripod and ventured out. I climbed the hill by the church and positioned myself behind the graveyard at the top. My camera captured some activity in the sky, but to be honest, I couldn’t see much with my own eyes. The aurora can be tricky like that.

WAY BACK

On our final day, it was time to leave the south and catch our flight—but not before making a few stops we missed on the way down. Our first stop was Dyrhólaey, where we enjoyed the black beaches and practiced long exposures. It was cloudy at first, but the skies cleared as the sun rose.

We also stopped at Skógafoss, Seljalandsfoss, and Urridafoss on our way.